This is step 2 in your routine, preceded by cleansing and followed by moisturizing, exfoliation is the step that has the potential to transform your skin in the shortest amount of time. Basic definition found on Google: shed (material) in scales or layers. Secondary definition found on Google: wash or rub (a part of the body) with a granular substance to remove dead cells from the surface of the skin. Most people would say the second definition is the true skincare definition of exfoliation. But that's only half right. Let's dive into the 2 types of skin exfoliation.
Type 1: Mechanical Exfoliation. This is what most people think of, and, just like that second definition above, involves using an abrasive to mechanically scrub off the top layer of dead skin cells. You can also experience mechanical exfoliation if you use a washcloth, face brush, or Clarisonic when you wash your face. Mechanical exfoliation works well at removing larger skin flakes and dead cells on the very surface of your skin. However, this type of exfoliation falls short if you are looking to exfoliate within your pores or to help increase cell turnover, reduce inflammation, reduce sun damage, increase epidermal thickness, or reduce signs of aging, scrubbing your face will not help. In fact, scrubbing too much can actually cause damage to your skin.
Now, some mechanical exfoliation is a good thing. I use a Clarisonic on my face a few times a week and use a cheap (read rough) washcloth to wash off my cleansing balm in the evenings. I can notice a difference in my skin when I incorporate these steps in my routine. But over-scrubbing can cause irritation and inflammation, not to mention micro-tears in your skin if you use those horrible awful fruit scrubs from the drug store. Do NOT scrub your face with anything made up of ground nut and fruit pit shells! It WILL make tiny cuts in your skin and it WILL cause irritation! Throw that s--- out!
Type 2 is chemical exfoliation and it's one of my most favorite things in life. My skin made a complete 180° turn once I started using them daily. The best way to chemically exfoliate is to use an acid. Specifically. an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) or a Beta Hydroxy Acid. (BHA). These weak acids are chemicals that have a pH of less than 7 (does that ring a bell from high school chemistry?) and exfoliate in a way that loosens dead skin cells comprising the outermost layer of your skin so that they can be easily shed. BHA is usually found in topical solutions of 1-2%, while AHA's can be used in concentrations of 8-10%. These products are applied topically, usually in the form of a gel, serum, or liquid toner, once or twice a day. While both AHAs and BHA can exfoliate the skin, there are differences in how they penetrate the skin and what other skin-helping roles they play.
I'm going to write a follow-up post (as this has become quite the albatross) about how to determine which type of acid to use, but one important note on selecting AHA or BHA products is that they MUST have a pH lower than 7 to work. Ideally they should be in the 3-4 range. Acids have a pH less than 7. If a product says it contains salicylic acid, but the final pH of the product is 7, it is no longer acidic and will not work. Aim for acids in the 3-4 pH range. Another note, do NOT go and buy an AHA and BHA and start using both on your face twice a day. If you're not used to using them, add one at a time into your routine. Start using one at night and slowly see if your face can handle more doses. I use an acid twice a day, but I've been doing so for a few years. Give your skin time to adjust. The number one skin care rule is to treat your skin as gently as possible. Slowly ease into an exfoliating routine and you won't end up with angry inflamed skin.
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